brettkettering's Canditions

5 out of 5
Date of Trip: November 13, 2015

Contrary to what some beta says, GPS works pretty well in most of this climb/canyon. After reaching the saddle the rappel anchor isn't "just around the corner to the left". You have to downclimb onto a ledge and work your way left along the dihedral until it starts to curve down, then you finally see it. Pull the rope from the first landing and elevator down the next drop. Now walk around the corner and you're on the ramps to the top. Once up the ramps about half way you can see the spire that is "key" to the exit. Lots of good class 3 friction up and down, great views, and two fun rappels.

5 out of 5
Date of Trip: October 3, 2015

Our group was of the consensus that FMM is a real gem. Very beautiful narrows sections. Saw a large owl nesting high up in the first narrow. Several swims and wades and the water was not stagnant and smelly, but was cold. Added a cairn anchor for a short undercut part that, in retrospect, we should have used a meat anchor and partner assist to do. We went high over the last couple narrows sections that had water because one of our group did not take a wetsuit and was hypothermic. Everyone should have a wetsuit this time of year. We got extra clothes on him, warmed him up, and went quickly through the section after the dry wash to the exit point, enjoying the warm swim just before entering the EF of the Virgin. We stayed in the sun for the while to eat and get our friend fully warmed, then hiked out. 11 hours car to car.

4 out of 5
Date of Trip: October 2, 2015

This canyon obviously gets done, but doesn't get reviewed much. It's steep and loose down to the first rappel (which is also a bolted sport climb, though I only saw two bolts on the 100' ramp). All anchors in good condition with a couple that looked like new webbing. Looking down into it reminded me of Mystery - very scenic. Though water had recently flowed through it (grasses and small shrubbery all pointing down canyon) it was dry (you'd have to try to get into the few puddles there were). This canyon is down climb after down climb. The better you are at down climbing the more fun this canyon will be for you. It was a long day for our group of 5, 9+ hours from Stave Springs TH to Weeping Rock.

5 out of 5
Date of Trip: February 14, 2015

Water was flowing with water temps at top of 44 and in 5th pool of 50. Lots of fun. Couldn't find an established anchor at rap 5, so we Fiddlestick'd off the tree on the LDC side of the waterfall. Girl in a bikini swimming in rap 5 pool. That's how we knew we were done. Recommend hiking up Bear Canyon a bit from there, crossing at the top of the waterfall and up the social trail to 7 Cataracts Vista pullout.

5 out of 5
Date of Trip: October 26, 2014

A fun canyon. We carried a couple 8mm ropes of 45' and 30'. Only the rappel out of FMM's proper and into the first larger wash required adding a bit of webbing to pull it. Nice to carry rope on the harness instead of big bags. Luke's (bluugnome.com) GPS coordinates were a great help getting in and out efficiently. A fair number of chilly pothole wades, a couple cold swims and a nice warm swim. Glad I had my 3mm Farmer John. A long hike, 12 miles, but a fun canyon.

5 out of 5
Date of Trip: October 25, 2014

I don't think anyone did this since the last time we did it in July. Same webbing with additions we made last time. Webbing on tree at Rap 1 will probably need changed with much more sun. Black webbing on Rap 2 is showing some abrasion. We did some scrambling up the MoS approach to check it out in case we want to summit another time. Later discovered we took an approach too far north, which we thought was the case because it turned into some chossy 5th class with lots of exposure. Be careful in the creek down to the employee campground as there are a fair number of quicksand spots.

5 out of 5
Date of Trip: October 24, 2014

Beautiful Fall scenery. Stick to the RDC wall and the seasonal lake is about armpit deep (I'm 6' 1"), but it is very cold. We did wear wetsuits and were glad we did because the rest of the canyon was pretty shady. Mystery Springs is a short swim (2 strokes), a couple of waist deep wades before rappelling into the Narrows, which was very low.

5 out of 5
Date of Trip: August 29, 2014

Only the spring was flowing. Nice water coming down the falls, but it only splashed our upper bodies, easy to keep out of the falling water. Never in water deeper than our knees. Water shoes and neoprene socks were a big plus. All rappels were rigged with 11mm static line. The last rappel is nicely bolted on the RDC wall. It's a really nice anchor, so even if you don't like bolts, don't destroy this nice anchor. We dropped three levels on the third rappel. That took us all the way to the last rappel anchor. This was a mistake. We stuck the rope and had to climb back up to unstick the rope. There's an anchor just above the fluted waterfall. Re-rigged there and that was an easy pull. We rappelled down onto the large fallen tree and then just crossed that tree to the exit path. So, we only saw five anchors and did five rappels (not seven).

5 out of 5
Date of Trip: July 3, 2014

Our group of 4 got an early start, first shuttle out of the VC. By 6:30am we were on the trail. A couple hours to the drop-in. By 10 we were on the first rappel. After a refreshing dip in a small pool during the descent after the last rappel, we were sitting at the Lodge in the shade of the big tree by 2:30pm. All water was easily avoidable. All anchors in great condition, several with very new webbing. Lots of sand to trudge through. Nice views across to Lodge Canyon at the end. No troubles pulling ropes.

5 out of 5
Date of Trip: July 2, 2014

Group of 4 started at 6:30am from the trailhead to stay out of the sun on the hike up and over the saddle to Spry and Lodge. Saw lots of Desert Big Horn Sheep. Took the short detour to the MoS cave. It was a nice, cool place to take a short rest. First rap had webbing between two trees, like that webbing was going to hold the front tree if it fell. Fixed it to be a true backup to the actual rappel webbing on the front tree. Replaced webbing & rapide on rap 3. LAWAR used an ATC and snuck the knot tying two ropes together past any obstacle for pulls on raps 5 & 6. All other raps we used a single rope. Weighting anchors on raps 5 & 6 is not nearly as difficult as we thought after reading beta - lots of foot holds to easily weight the anchors. On the Lodge lawn eating ice cream at 12:30pm. Lots of fun.

5 out of 5
Date of Trip: June 30, 2014

Big wall rap nerves at top quickly turn to enjoyment. Big ice wall and clear pool at the large ledge. Smaller chunk of ice and deer carcass at the bottom. 4th rap's pothole is dry. About 1/3 mile after 4th rap two of us passed over a log not noticing the 3' Rattler off to the side. It warned our 3rd with vigorous rattling. We scooted it away with a long stick. Do keep an eye out, though, a bite here could be long wait for rescue. Last rap now has an anchor off the downclimb's dihedral crack. That was fast and nice, about 50'. Orderville water starts before the small waterfall rap. Several short swims or neck deep pools. We used wetsuits, but could have gotten by without. Cool water the rest of the way felt good on a hot day.

5 out of 5
Date of Trip: June 29, 2014

A really nice canyon with so many rappels that we lost count. We left early, but the temps made the scramble up to the saddle rough. Some steep sections, but we didn't find it at all exposed or scary. Rap 1 potholes stanky, but avoidable. Doing the 2 small raps in the first small slot area put you waist deep in stanky water (w/ chipmunk floater). After the "Big Tree" rap we rapped into knee-deep water, but it is clear and not unpleasant. Did angle into second flute to avoid stanky pool. 4th class downclimb has a nice webbing handline into near chest deep stanky pool. Final couple raps are scenic. Scrambled down boulder field to fun midway cliff band rap. Finished with a dip in the crystal clear spring pool in Pine Creek - very refreshing in the 100+ temps.

5 out of 5
Date of Trip: June 28, 2014

Canyon is dry with the exception of a couple mud patches that are easily avoidable. All anchors in excellent condition. We shuttled a couple 4WDs to the bottom parking, which made the exit much better, especially exiting at 1pm in 100+ temps. A couple guided groups followed us, but we never heard them. There was a large group preparing to go down when we finished, but we were glad to be out then as they were pre-hydrating with what is generally more acceptable as post-canyon hydration.

4 out of 5
Date of Trip: February 23, 2014

A fun canyon. Bone dry during our pass through it. Don't even need water shoes. Group ahead of us put new webbing on a few rappels, so all in good condition now. Watch out for poison oak.

4 out of 5
Date of Trip: February 21, 2014

Wear shoes you don't mind getting wet. A couple ponds are about knee-deep. Other than that you'll just get your shoes wet until about half-way down when the water disappears underground. The last rappel/downclimb has a single bolted hanger. The hanger spins and the bolt flexes when weighted. A few of our group rappelled on it. If you're taller (I'm 6' 1") you can chimney down it without too much problem. That bolt should be removed and replaced with a proper two-bolt setup for those that must do the short rappel.