North Fork of Robbers Roost

Last Candition: May 27, 2011

4.5

4 out of 5
Date of Trip: October 25, 2015

Great, easy canyon.

Well worth doing the final rap, and exploring the narrow section just passed it. You can ascend and escape out the short cut.

Lots of mud. Water mostly avoidable, except for one short section up to ankle deep.

5 out of 5
Date of Trip: September 28, 2015

Went through with a group of 5 on a beautiful, but very hot (90F +) day. Anchors were all in great shape with new rust colored webbing on the first 2 drops and dark green webbing on the third which was still in very good condition. We did follow the slot down the the last rap (didn't check the webbing on the bolts) and then retreated back upcanyon and exited due to the heat.

The canyon was dry except for a couple of the potholes had a little easily avoided mud from what looked like a very small flash flood from the recent storms.

5 out of 5
Date of Trip: March 21, 2015

Really nice, no water at all. Long walk to and back from the canyon. We took the first exit before the last rap. Some of the group took the last rap and jugged back up - they said it was pretty nice but not really worth it.

5 out of 5
Date of Trip: December 28, 2014

We gave this canyon a shot with snow on the ground and it proved pretty straightforward still. Some of the down

climbs and stems were a little more complicated if there was snow and required a bit more partner assist but was manageable. We ended up using only existing anchors which all looked to be in good condition.

For the approach and exit, this canyon feels like a real winner. Very scenic, fun, and remote area.

5 out of 5
Date of Trip: October 17, 2014

Surprised to see 2 other parties in here on a Friday. Once we did the canyon it was easy to see why - close to pave road (by Roost standards), extremely scenic and only moderate down climb and rappel challenges in the canyon.

As a previous post said, lots of sand on the holds at the 5.4 spot so that handline someone set up was a nice safety. Agreed with others that the out-climb is physical; best done on a cool day like we had.

Shoe-top mud/water in the one pothole.

Since we saw a trio of families headed down having lots of fun, I hope the bolt choppers leave what is here so groups like this can see this canyon with that added security, since the bolts are already there. Does anyone know the history of these bolts - general canyoneers, a guiding company?

Once on top of the ridge along the fence line we could see the cars parked at the top of the ridge and a straight line made for a quick walk out.

4 out of 5
Date of Trip: May 4, 2013

Completely dry and the anchors are in good shape. An necessary/unnecessary anchor has been setup for that 6 foot-ish exposed downclimb, maybe useful for some, but it changes the integrity of the canyon. I also noticed some graffiti in the canyon, they were dumb enough to write their names so if anyone is up for a good ole name bashing...

Webbing has been setup for the climb out, I found it to be pretty helpful for there was a lot of sand on the footholds.

5 out of 5
Date of Trip: April 7, 2013

Plenty of desert hiking and wash walking before & after the fun canyon stretches. No water in the narrows. (Subject to change after this coming storm system.) Saw Mtn. lion tracks in lower canyon. Climb Utah description of crack exit is misleading. GPS coordinates are correct but verbal description is not. Exit canyon is now clearly indicated with at least 2 social trails leading in & rock cairns marking the entry. Physically demanding upclimb. At the second rap we removed one very old sling and a newer blue sling with rap ring slung around the entire canyon blocking chockstone. Left a yellow sling atttached to a deadman setup of stacked boulders on the upstream side of the big chockstone. At a short drop section with 2 shallow potholes between 1st & 2nd rappels, where partner assist and/or meat anchor would work, we practiced using a sandtrap which worked quite well. Evidence of removed bolts at this location and some rope grooving across the lip of one of the shallow potholes.

4 out of 5
Date of Trip: April 6, 2013

The first anchor will need to be replaced soon. Replaced not added to, I removed lots of excess there. Second anchor has lots of webbing in varying conditions. I'm not sure what should be done there. Other anchors are great. I'm thankful for the bolts because I found no other options. There is a handline on the exit crack I'm thankful existed. Climb is not hard but tiring.

4 out of 5
Date of Trip: October 20, 2012

Great canyon, stayed dry, lots of bolts in this canyon that don't need to be there...lively climbing exit. Good fun.

5 out of 5
Date of Trip: October 4, 2012

Canyon dry except for a little mud in a few potholes. All avoidable if you have decent balance.

Webbing and anchors all in decent shape, but webbing may need to be replaced soon depending on your risk tolerance.

5 out of 5
Date of Trip: April 21, 2012

Clean, dry, almost antiseptic, thought IT could have its neighbors name- Ho Hum. The crack exit made the day- if you stay on the wall I'd go with Toms 5.7, a little thin high, but if you use the back wall there, Shanes 5.4 rules. Stay with the fence line for Toms 2 car exit point on the road, Shanes going back to the drop in spur is a long hot sandy meander, even with a GPS.

3 out of 5
Date of Trip: May 27, 2011

Nice canyon, dry. Getting into was alittle difficult, but a short downclimb from the rim (left side LDC). Lots of downclimbs, a couple of raps. The exit is 5.4, but there are many of them in the low 5's up the crack. We did see a car early morning (8:30am) on Sat, still there at about 8:30pm when we left. Hopefully there was nothing wrong going on.