Shenanigans Canyon

Last Candition: October 15, 2011

4.7

5 out of 5
Date of Trip: May 16, 2020

WARNING: Missing side traverse off exit gully = danger (see below). Check Bluugnome photos.

Dry. Final pool knee-depth or ankle with ledge on left. Prius-able roads.

Grim Crawl unnecessary b.c. deadman anchor. Good webbing.

Rap downclimbs tall, exposed.

Final rap anchor is beyond the rim ~6' requiring stem over open air. Can be meat-belayed. Someone could stem up and rig an earlier chockstone.

Kelsey exit the crux because we missed the side traverse, even following cairns. Steep. Deep, loose sand. Microwave-sized rock broke and slid above me. Exposed climbing made 5.12 climber feel insecure. Every hold covered in sand. Large rocks easy to knock down. Someone slung a belay anchor, but could knock down toaster-sized rocks. I did this 1 yr. ago fine, using correct right traverse.

TH-to-crack took 2 skinny ppl 4 hrs, crack took 2 hrs (1.5 hrs in dark), crack-to-TH w/o shuttle 1.5 hrs (wandered a little).

5 out of 5
Date of Trip: May 5, 2020

Great canyon. No water until the spring under the last rappel. WARNING: The webbing for the last rappel is now slung around a chockstone requiring an R or X rated stem out over the edge with nothing between it and the spring 50 feet below. Very difficult to inspect. (See sketchyancor's review below). Used top belay to set up & attached a carabiner w/ cord to the rap line for easy retrieval for each person in group. Another option is to rig a new anchor using a chockstone up canyon just before the end of the previous rap- could possibly use a fiddlestick from that location, but I did not evaluate it carefully. On climb out, look for Cairns 2/3 of the way up and traverse right around an arete, per beta elsewhere. Otherwise the top section of the gully becomes class 5ish. We took the class 5ish option and noted fairly new webbing w/ rapide strung around a boulder near the top...perhaps someone was not as successful as we were in that last section and needed a rescue?

5 out of 5
Date of Trip: March 28, 2020

Party of 4, took 6 hours. Largest member was 6'1" and 180lbs, and was able to squeeze through the tight spots. The rap with the "Grimm Crawl" had a solid deadman anchor, so none of us had to do the crawl. Some water throughout. The first pool was avoidable by some in our group, and not by others (the wet person just carried the other dry people over any other pools throughout the day). Last rappel webbing in good condition.

5 out of 5
Date of Trip: May 4, 2019

No water in canyon deeper than knee, final pool just over waist at it's deepest. Over all a fun tight romp

4 out of 5
Date of Trip: April 15, 2018

Water levels very low and smelly. Final pool is only about 20' long now.

WARNING ABOUT FINAL RAP ANCHOR:

The traditional chockstone used for the rap anchor is loose and the webbing attached to it is not secured properly. I climbed up and could rotate it almost 30 degrees with my hand. This rotation has caused the webbing to walk down between the chockstone and the wall, this webbing could easily be useless without being inspectable.

We installed a webbing anchor on a chockstone slightly farther downcanyon but it requires VERY exposed climbing to reach it. There is also an anchor ~200' upcanyon at the start of the blocks near the exit rappel. CHECK ALL CHOCKSTONES BEFORE YOU ANCHOR OFF THEM.

5 out of 5
Date of Trip: January 1, 2017

The roads that approach the Butler Wash area are good, a little bit of snow here and there. The seismic survey road near the top of Shenanigans is a bit rough, 4x4 recommended. The canyon was dry except for the pool at the bottom. There is no snow on the Kelsey exit. 5h34m car-to-car. A great canyon choice on a 40 degree day.

5 out of 5
Date of Trip: May 16, 2015

Wet, Wet, Wet! Water throughout the entire canyon with one unavoidable swimmer in the first narrows section. Most water levels only ankle to knee deep. Webbing on the first and last rappel in good condition. No deadman anchor at the grim crawl section so be prepared to build your own or provide a meat anchor and downclimb. The water/mud made travel slightly slower than expected but still a fantastic day in the canyon!

5 out of 5
Date of Trip: May 26, 2013

Wow! Tight. Be prepared to be chewed up. A small pool at the end of the first narrows is avoidable if one can stem out far enough before dropping. Anchor at the abyss (after the ledge belly crawl) had redundant around the same chockstone boulder and is okay. Last drop has two webbing anchors around a higher chockstone that are showing wear and will need replacing soon. Water in the lower pool is a few inches higher than the ledge on the left that allows one to skirt it. First person down didn't hit it and couldn't touch bottom. Be prepared with a Butler Canyon exit route just in case Kelsey exit doesn't happen.

5 out of 5
Date of Trip: April 14, 2013

No visible anchors for the first downclimb. Second downclimb into the slot had webbing. Little water, and all avoidable in the canyon. End spring/pool, is avoidable by carefully staying to the left. Possible to build a deadman anchor to avoid the Grim Crawl. Last anchor was redundant to the same anchor point (high chockstone), but starting to age.

5 out of 5
Date of Trip: October 20, 2012

All anchors good. There was one pool midway through the canyon that was chest deep. The pool at the bottom of the last rap is the smallest I have ever seen it. It is a deep wade.

3 out of 5
Date of Trip: September 15, 2012

There is currently an unavoidable chest deep pool at the beginning of the canyon. There is also a lot of very sticky, slippery mud in the rest of the canyon. The anchors at the very top and the very bottom are in good condition. Deep rope grooves are beginning to form on the bollard at the final rappel sequence. IMO it is a good place to get a rope stuck; the downclimb to the final anchor is much easier than it looks. If you must rappel from the bollard, please consider leaving a sling around it.

5 out of 5
Date of Trip: May 25, 2012

Lots of fun, all the anchors were solid and the canyon was dry until the last rap.

5 out of 5
Date of Trip: May 11, 2012

No major issues, the only water was at the end, some of us were able to climb on the left edge and avoid the water. It is a tough finger traverse, but doable, a fun challenge with only the fear of getting wet if you slip.

4 out of 5
Date of Trip: October 15, 2011

still a bit wet down in there... the slick mudd sticking to your shoes makes stemming a bit more tricky too. We didnt take the kelsey exit but wish we had when we realized that after hiking the 3.5 mile exit we were still 3 miles from our campsite and car... all the anchors were good...